Every pair of raw denim that leaves the studio comes with the same speech, so here it is written down. Most of it applies to heavyweight knits and canvas too.
The first six months: leave them alone
Raw denim needs body time before it needs soap time. The creases and fades that make a pair yours are literally worn into the fabric, and early washing flattens all of it. Six months of regular wear before the first wash is the classic rule and it is a good one.
Smell is the objection everyone raises. Hang them overnight inside out, air is free. If they genuinely stink, a cold hand soak will not kill the fades.
When you do wash
- Cold water, always. Hot water is how indigo leaves and elastane dies.
- Inside out, zipped and buttoned.
- Gentle liquid detergent, a third of what the bottle says.
- Hand wash or gentle machine cycle. No dryer, ever. Line dry in shade.
Heavyweight knits
Same logic, faster timeline. A 320gsm tee or hoodie wants a cold wash after a few wears, inside out, and it wants to meet the clothesline, not the dryer. Heat is what turns a good knit into a crop top over a year of careless drying.
The dryer is the single worst thing you own for your clothes. Everything else on this list is a distant second.
Canvas and workwear
Waxed canvas never goes in the machine. Spot clean, cold sponge, and re-wax once a year, which is a service we run for $85 if you would rather not do it on the kitchen table. Unwaxed canvas can take a gentle cold machine wash but expects a little shrink the first time.
When the wear shows
Crotch blowouts, hem fraying, pocket corners going thin: these are normal, and they are what the repair bench is for. Catch them early and the fix is cheap. Wait until the seam fully lets go and it is a bigger job.
